Byron's Diana-like funeral procession to his Hucknall vault and the "Nottingham Goths"

1824 - Byron on his death bed in Greece

Today's "Tale from Watnall Hall" is a deep dive into the local events following of the death of our endlessly fascinating bad boy Lord Byron. In the 1830's even Watnall Hall's old fire grates were bought by Newstead Abbey's new owner desperate to do up Byron's ancestral home to greet the increasingly huge flocks of visiting Byron fans.

Thousands of visitors a year were making the pilgrimage. It's sometimes forgotten quite what an international superstar Lord Byron, Newstead Abbey's edgy young poet/freedom fighter, had become on his death in 1824, aged just 36, during the Greek War of Independence. He is buried in the old Byron family vault at St Mary Magdalene church, Hucknall and his Lady Diana-like funeral procession there was attended by thousands of his fans. An eyewitness that day was local Byron fan-girl and author Mary Howitt who gives a fantastic no holds barred account of the procession criticising everyone involved from the town corporation to the mysterious "Nottingham Goths." Mary's husband William Howitt was inspired by the procession to write... 

"Thousands were risen to see him borne away;
Thousands were thronging towers, and streets, and hills;
I too had vowed to spend that live-long day
In honouring him whose mighty spirit thrills"

Chapters
- Pop culture hero
- Death in Greece and homecoming
- Funeral procession to Hucknall
- Mary Howitt's unfiltered account of the funeral procession
- Mary changes her tune
- The Nottingham Goths?
- The local newspaper reports
- Who were the mourners?
- Final words
- The secret unsealing the family vault
- When did Byron live at Newstead?
- Was Lord Byron a pioneering adopter of "van life"?
- Notes and sources incl. the improbable but true tale "They Dug Up Lord Byron’s Body in 1938 and Were Shocked by The Size of His Dick"


Pop culture hero
Byron was one of the first examples of a mass pop culture hero, swooned over like a Byronic boy-band by flocks of female fans and hero-worshipped in Greece where he went to fight and die in the War of Independence. His ancestral home Newstead Abbey became a mecca for "Byron-mania" tourists, attracting thousands of visitors a year even in the 1820s. This modern-sounding term was actually coined back in 1812 when the dangerously glamourous young Byron's autobiographical poem Childe Harold's Pilgrimage made him an overnight star and a fan-mail target of hordes of obsessive female admirers. 
George Gordon Byron, 6th Baron Byron
Poet superstar
22 January 1788 – 19 April 1824

Death in Greece and homecoming
After years of European grand touring in his custom-made horse-drawn sleeping carriage (#vanlife), Byron died of fever in the besieged town of Missolonghi in Greece but back in England... "there was controversy over where the poet was to be buried. Westminster Abbey refused on ground’s of Byron’s “questionable morality.” After several weeks of negotiations, the corpse was eventually shipped back to England, embalmed in a vat of brandy, for burial at the Church of St. Mary Magdalene". His initial lying in state in London attracted thousands fans "in an atmosphere of near-hysterical emotion" before his body was transported to Nottingham.

Funeral procession to Hucknall
Large crowds lined the route of his funeral procession from Nottingham's Old Market Square to Hucknall. Mary Howitt vividly describes the scenes that day. She had joined the thronging crowds to see Byron’s coffin and urn viewed by thousands of people lying in state at the Blackamoors Head Inn at the bottom of Pelham Street. At 11 o’clock on Friday, July 16th 1824, the funeral procession moved along the mourner-lined Long Row before turning up Market Street and making its way... 

"up Mansfield Road, and through Papplewick and Linby on to the Wighay, and thence to the Church, which had been visited all the morning by great numbers of people, most of whom also looked in the vault. The minute bell began to toll at half-past one, and some special visitors were permitted to enter the Church, where the splendid but mournful procession arrived at 18 minutes to 4 o'clock. The Rev. Charles Nixon read the service, and at the committal part thereof the attendants placed the coffin and urn in the vault, the bearer of the coronet on a crimson cushion standing at the top of the vault steps. The Vicar stood within the Communion Rails to read the last portion of the service." 

Byron was buried in the family vault at St. Mary Magdalene church in Hucknall (below). Underneath Byron’s coffin (left) may be seen that of the 5th “Wicked Lord” which is on the crushed leaden shell of the fourth Lord Byron. The coffin under that of Lady Ada Lovelace (centre) is the coffin of Byron’s mother.

The Byron family vault
Byron's coffin (left) and coronet borne on a
crimson cushion during the funeral procession 



Mary Howitt's unfiltered account of the funeral
Mary Howitt, aged 25, and herself an author and poet, was the perfect demographic of a Byron fan. She wrote to her sister Anna her own account of the superstar poet's final day in Hucknall. 
Her opinionated comments pull no punches criticising the local Corporation, artistics and gentry alike...

"July 18, 1824. Poor Byron! I was grieved exceedingly at the tidings of his death; but when his remains arrived here, it seemed to make it almost a family sorrow. I wept then, for my heart was full of grief to think that fine eccentric genius, that handsome man, the brave asserter of the rights of the Greeks, and the first poet of our time, he whose name will be mentioned with reverence and whose glory will be uneclipsed when our children shall have passed to dust, to think that he lay a corpse in an inn in this very town. Oh! Anna, I could not refrain from tears.

"Byron's faithful, generous, undeviating friend, Hobhouse, who stood by him to the last, his friend through good and evil, -he only, excepting Byron's servants and the undertakers, came down to see the last rites paid. Hobhouse's countenance was pale, and strongly marked by mental suffering.

Mary Howitt, Nottingham author and poet, who attended Byron's funeral procession
in 1824 aged 25 was the perfect demographic of Byron's adoring female fans.
Older Mary became a famous children's book author.

Old Market Square in the early 1800's
Scene of Byron's laying in state
before his funeral procession to Hucknall.

"But to particulars. On Fifth-day afternoon the hearse and mourning coaches came into Nottingham. In the evening the coffin lay in state. The crowd was immense. We went among the rest. I shall never forget it. The room was hung with black, with the escutcheons of the Byron family on the walls; it was lighted by six immense wax-candles, placed round the coffin in the middle of the room. The coffin was covered with crimson velvet, richly ornamented with brass nails; on the top was a plate engraved with the arms and titles of Lord Byron. At the head of the coffin was placed a small chest containing an urn, which enclosed the heart and brains. Four pages stood, two on each side. Visitors were admitted by twelves, and were to walk round only; but we laid our hands on the coffin. It was a moment of enthusiastic feeling to me, It seemed to me impossible that that wonderful man lay actually within that coffin. It was more like a dream than a reality.

"Nottingham, which connects everything with politics, could not help making even the passing respect to our poet's memory a political question. He was a Whig; he hated priests, and was a lover of liberty; he was the author of Don Juan' and Cain. So the Tory party, which is the same as saying the gentry, would not notice even his coffin. The parsons had their feud, and therefore not a bell tolled either when he came or went. He was a lover of liberty, which the Radical Corporation here thought made him their brother; therefore all the rabble rout from every lane and alley, and garret and cellar, came forth to curse and swear, and shout and push, in his honour. All religious people forswore him, on account of his licentiousness and blasphemy; they forgot his Childe Harold,' his Bride of Abydos," the Corsair,' and 'Lara.'

"The next morning all the friends and admirers of Byron were invited to meet in the market-place, to form a procession to accompany him out of town. Thou must have read in the papers the funeral train that came from London. In addition to this were five gentlemen's carriages, and perhaps thirty riders on horseback, besides Lord Rancliffe's tenantry, who made about thirty more, and headed the procession, and were by far the most respectable; for never, surely, did such a shabby company ride in the train of mountebanks or players. There was not one gentleman who would honour our immortal bard by riding two miles in his funeral train. The equestrians, instead of following two and two, as the paper says they did, most remarkably illustrated riding all sixes and sevens.

"William, Charles, Thomas Knott, and that odd Smith (thou rememberest him) went to Hucknall to see the interment. It, like the rest, was the most disgraceful scene of confusion that can well be imagined, for from the absence of all persons of influence, or almost of respectability, the rude crowd of country clowns and Nottingham Goths paid no regard to the occasion, and no respect or decency was to be seen. William says it was almost enough to make Byron rise from the dead to see the scene of indecorum, and the poor, miserable place in which he lies, though it is the family burial vault. "That mad-headed, impetuous Smith was, like the rest, enraged at the want of respect which was the most marked trait of the interment. Although he had that day walked in the heat of a broiling sun fourteen miles, he sat up and wrote a poem on the subject, which I send as a curiosity. He composed and copied it by three o'clock in the morning, went and called up Sutton, very much to his displeasure, had it sent to press by six o'clock, and by nine had the verses ready for publication. Byron's servants took four-and-twenty copies, and seemed much delighted with it.

William Howitt's poem inspired by Byron's internment

"Is it not strange that such an unusual silence is maintained by the poets on the subject of his death? It reminds me of the Eastern custom of breaking all instruments of music in any overwhelming grief, or on the occasion of the death of some favourite. It seems a theme too painful for any but a master-touch, and he is gone that could do best justice to such a subject."

Mary changes her tune
A few months later a prudish Mary reads the newly published "Conversations of Byron", a candid series of his comments on life in general and other authors in particular. It makes her want to smash a bust of Byron she has on the mantelpiece!..
"Thou hast heard, I suppose, of  'Lord Byron's Conversations,' by Captain Medwin. By the extracts given in the different papers, as kittiwakes to the appetite of the public, I am more offended and disgusted with Lord Byron's sentiments than I ever thought to be. I've have his bust on the chimneypiece, and so angry am I that I should like to demolish it, were it not ornamental." 

The Nottingham Goths?
Not sure what Mary's reference to the "Nottingham Goths" could mean. The term has an obvious modern interpretation but I don't think she is referring to brooding, darkly made up teenagers. 
More likely a swipe at the local fans of the resurgent 18th century movement of Gothic revivalism whose aesthetic had influenced literature and architecture. She's too early to mean Watson Fothergill but his style is in the same vein.

1824 - The reception of Lord Byron in Messolonghi in Greece during the War of Independence.
(painted by Vryzakis Theodoros)
Byron died at shortly after. Today he is a Greek national hero.
His involvement may have been low on actual combat time
but was influential on public opinion for the Greek cause.

Greeks v. Turks at the 3rd Siege ofMissolonghi

Byron in Albanian national dress.
It was via his pro-Greek friend Ali Pasha of Albania 
that he got involved in the war.

Byron's ancestral home was Newstead Abbey.
The deer park, by his great uncle William Byron, 4th Baron Byron
c.1700


The local newspaper reports
Nottingham's newspapers reported the procession in less opinionated detail including its members which included some interesting and unusual participants...
 
"The body of the noble bard arrived in Nottingham, on the 15th, and awaited interment till the next morning, at the Blackmoor's Head Inn. At ten, the procession set out in the following order :--
Two Constables, on horseback.
Two Bailiffs, on horseback.
Mr. Woodeson, the Undertaker, on horseback.
James Orme, Esq., and Twenty-six of Lord Rancliffe's Tenants, on
horseback, two and two.
Two Mutes on horseback.
A large Plume of black Feathers, carried on a man's head, with two
supporters, on foot.
Four Cloakmen, on horseback, two and two.
The State Horse, richly caparisoned, and led by two Pages, the Rider carrying on his arms the Coronet of the deceased Lord on a crimson velvet cushion, ornamented with gold tassels and fringe.
The Hearse, containing the Body.
Mourning Coach and six, with the Urn, containing the Heart.
Mourning Coach and six, containing, as Chief Mourners, Colonel Leigh, Colonel Wildman, John Cam Hobhouse, Esq., M.P., and John Hanson, Esq.
Mourning Coach and six, with the late Lord Byron's Household, who were chiefly foreigners.
Mourning Coach and six, containing the Mayor of Nottingham, Ald. Soars, and Sheriffs Leaver and Guilford, attended by three of the Corporation servants, in full mourning.
Mourning Coach and six, containing the Town Clerk, Under-Sheriff, and the rest of the Deputation from the Corporate Body, attended by three servants in full mourning.
The Right Hon. Lord Rancliffe's Carriage, with his Lordship therein. William Sherbrooke, Esq.'s Carriage, closed.
Colonel Wildman's Carriage, containing the Pall-bearers, Messrs. Stave-ley, A. T. Fellows, Dunn, Homer, J. Fellows, and Smith.
A Chaise, with Mr. H. M. Wood and Mr. John Crackle.
A private Carriage.
About forty Gentlemen on horseback, two and two.

The mournful cortège moved down Smithy-row, along the Market-place and Chapel-bar, round into Parliament-street, and then proceeded up Milton-street, and along the Mansfield-road as far as the seventh milestone, where it turned off for Hucknall, by way of Papplewick. It was accompanied by large bodies of spectators. Soon after half-past three, the procession began to enter the church, the vicar, the Rev. Mr. Nixon, taking the lead. The body and urn were brought in, and placed on trestles in the aisle, Colonel Leigh, Lord Rancliffe, Colonel Wildman, J. C. Hobhouse, Esq., and John Hanson, Esq., occupying the principal pew, and the Mayor and Corporation the one opposite. Mr. Nixon read the burial-service; and at four, the vault received all that was mortal of the illustrious Byron."

Who were the mourners?
3.35pm - The Service starts. Mary Howitt's description of the service includes several mysterious and exotic guests, a group of personal servants, who had accompanied Byron back from Greece. They had been more like friends and were deeply affected. A 'poor black servant', probably Benjamin Lewis, never took his eyes off the coffin. 'Tita' Falcieri who came from a family of Venetian gondoliers, 'seemed as if he were a stranger and friendless'. William Fletcher had been a farmer on the Newstead estate until 1808 when he became Byron's valet and constant companion; he had to withdraw from the front and support himself on a pillar, being so grief-stricken.

The chief mourners on the day had to push their way through the crowded church to the front. Attending were Colonel Thomas Wildman (the new owner of Newstead Abbey and Byron's school friend from Harrow), Colonel George Leigh (Byron's brother-in-law), John Cam Hobhouse (a constant friend he had known since his student days in Cambridge) and John Hanson. Hanson was officially the family lawyer but he had known Byron his entire life; Hanson's wife had recommended the midwife who delivered the poet. Always in the background taking care of things, Hanson was the nearest thing Byron ever had to a father figure.


Final words
I'll leave as the final words, some prescient thoughts of William Howitt on Byron's internment and his legacy...



The secret unsealing the family vault
More than a century later in the summer of 1938, Byron's vault and coffin were unsealing by a party of local dignitaries, including Mr. Seymour Cocks, the MP for Broxtowe, an appropriately humorous name for the resulting and rather odd tale...

Rev TG Barber
According to church warden A. E. Houldsworth, for some time, the Reverend Canon Barber, vicar of Hucknall parish and member of the mine-owning family, was concerned the body in the crypt of his church of St. Mary Magdalene, Hucknall, was not that of the poet Lord Byron but possibly an impostor... "Who else it could have been, he was not quite sure, but he often wondered if, in fact, there was a body in the crypt at all. It was a small doubt grown large from questions asked by the many visitors to the parish, who came to pay pilgrimage at the poet’s (supposed) final resting place."
Early in 1938, Canon Barber confided in Houldsworth about his misgivings and expressed his intention to examine the Byron vault and “clear up all doubts as to the Poet’s burial place and compile a record of the contents of the vault.”

Barber wrote a book about it but said the reason for unsealing the vault was for archaeological investigations and that it was to be kept a secret to stop Byron fans wanted to attend. It still didn't stop him returning to the vault in the dead of night after the official vault opening party had gone home...
"Within the case was another coffin of wood—the lid had never been fastened. What was beneath it? If I raised it, what should I discover? Dare I look within? Yes, the world should know the truth—that the body of the great poet was there—or that the coffin was empty. Reverently, very reverently, I raised the lid, and before my eyes there lay the embalmed body of Byron in as perfect a condition as when it was placed in the coffin one hundred and fourteen years ago. His features and hair easily recognisable from the portraits with which I was so familiar. The serene, almost happy expression on his face made a profound impression upon me. The feet and ankles were uncovered, and I was able to establish the fact that his lameness had been that of his right foot. But enough—I gently lowered the lid of the coffin—and as I did so, breathed a prayer for the peace of his soul." 
Satisfied with his inspection, Barber's final words reveal another motivation... "I had exploded the theory that the body and the heart of the great poet were buried elsewhere."
It’s been claimed by some that Byron had an enormous erection. In the 1970s, Houldsworth told a local newspaper that Byron’s penis was as big and as long as "a pony’s."

When did Byron live at Newstead?
On and off between 1808-1814. He never expected to inherit the decaying family seat of Newstead Abbey. The unexpected death of his 22-year-old cousin on naval duty in Corsica and then the passing of his great uncle the 5th Lord Byron brought the title to him. It was an unexpected but mixed blessing. He was only 10-years-old and Newstead had been run into the ground and family heirlooms sold off to cover the 5th Lord's huge debts. He had to wait eight years before reaching his age of majority.

"From 1805 to 1808, when he took possession of the Abbey at Newstead, he kept terms at Trinity College, Cambridge. In 1806 he printed for private circulation his first volume of poems, of which Mr. Ridge, of Newark, was the publisher. 
In 1809 he attained his majority, took his seat in the House of Lords, and published English Bards and Scotch Reviewers. In the same year he set out on his first tour; and after visiting Portugal, Spain, Greece, Asia Minor, &c., returned to England in 1811. 
Soon after his return he lost his mother. In 1812 he published Childe Harold, Cantos I. and II."

In 1816 he left England never to return. With increasing debt and an inability to fund his superstar life-style he sold Newstead to school friend Thomas Wildman in 1818. He spent a large part of his inherited family fortune restoring it and turning into the tourist mecca that it very quickly became and which it remains to this day.

Was Lord Byron a pioneering adopter of "van life"?
The following description is from the opening page of Fiona MacCarthy's book "Byron: Life and Legend" and sounds very much like Byron had his own custom-made van conversion, much like today's van-lifers, with a sleeping area, storage, bookshelves and kitchen facilities. Eco friendly and low pollution too, perfect for those European low emission zones..

"One of the sights of Europe in 1816 was the lurching progress of the self-exiled Lord Byron as he travelled from Brussels to Geneva and on to Italy in his monumental black Napoleonic carriage. This purpose-built coach, a de luxe version of the Emperor Napoleon's own celebrated carriage captured at Genappe, included not only Byron's lit de repos but his travelling library, his plate-chest and facilities for dining. Drawn by four or six horses, it was nothing less than a small palatial residence on wheels. The bill from Baxter the coach-maker amounted to £500. Poor Baxter was still pressing for payment in 1823, a claim dismissed airily by Byron with the words, 'Baxter must wait - at least a year. Presumably the bill was still unsettled when Byron died in Greece in April 1824."

#vanlife - is an unconventional lifestyle of living in a car, van, or other motor vehicle. People who travel and live this way by choice are typically seeking a more self-sufficient lifestyle characterized by freedom and mobility. 


Byron Grand Touring by VW Kombi

Byron's actual carriage was modelled on his hero Bonaparte's own one



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Notes and sources

Mary Howitt's autobiography https://archive.org/details/maryhowittautobi00howi/page/102/mode/2up?ref=ol&q=goths

The Nottingham Date Book https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/The_Date_Book_of_Remarkable_and_Memorabl/SoQHAAAAQAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&pg=PA495&printsec=frontcover&dq=byron

William Howitt - A Poet's Thoughts at the Interment of Lord Byron, first edition, Printed for Baldwin, Cradock, and Joy, 1824. https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=9bx_eus1LRMC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false

The Watnall Hall grates... "I hear much of the goings on at Newstead. Colonel Wildman prevailed on Mrs. Rolleston to let him have the old grates from Watnall , and they are now among the precious "antiques" of Newstead." Spring 1835 written at Woodborough Hall from the Letters of Frances Rolleston https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=mNMxAQAAMAAJ&pg=GBS.PA92&hl=en_GB&q=wildman

Left Lion magazine https://leftlion.co.uk/features/2018/01/miranda-seymour-on-lord-byron/

Honourable mention to Sir Julien Cahn, eccentric local entrepreneur who bought Newstead and donated it to Nottingham City Council for the benefit of the people. He deserves an article of his own.

Newstead visitor numbers - With the coming of the railways in the 1830s and cheaper travel, visitor numbers grew to around 10,000 every year - "Byron and Newstead : the aristocrat and the abbey" by Beckett, J. V. ; "The fall and rise of the stately home" by Mandler, Peter

J H Beardsmore, The History of Hucknall Torkard, (1909) http://www.nottshistory.org.uk/books/hucknall1909/hucknall13.htm

Fiona MacCarthy's Byron: Life and Legend https://archive.org/details/byronlifelegend0000macc/page/n7/mode/2up

https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/features/on-the-trail-of-the-real-lord-byron-126324.html

Byron's Vault - T. G. Barber, Byron and where he is buried, (1939)  http://www.nottshistory.org.uk/books/byron1939/chapter22b.htm
The following X-rated tale was reported in various places including here... 
https://flashbak.com/they-dug-up-lord-byrons-body-in-1938-and-were-shocked-by-the-size-of-his-dick-417510/

They Dug Up Lord Byron’s Body in 1938 and Were Shocked by The Size of His Dick

At four o'clock on the afternoon of 15th June 1938, the doors to St. Mary Magdalene were locked. Inside, around forty people waited expectantly for the opening of the Byron vault.

Doubt weakens the strongest faith. For some time, the Reverend Canon Barber, vicar of Hucknall parish, was concerned the body in the crypt of his church of St. Mary Magdalene, Nottinghamshire, was not that of the poet Lord Byron but possibly an impostor. Who else it could have been, he was not quite sure, but he often wondered if, in fact, there was a body in the crypt at all. It was a small doubt grown large from questions asked by the many visitors to the parish, who came to pay pilgrimage at the poet’s (supposed) final resting place. The question which troubled him most: But how do you know he’s buried here?
When Byron died of fever at the age of 36 in Missolonghi, Greece, on 19th April 1826, his body was opened up by five physicians and his brain and internal organs removed. What they were looking for, one has to wonder, but it is believed the Greeks wanted a part of their hero poet to be kept in their country. Byron’s final adventure brought him to Greece with the intention of liberating the country from their Ottoman rulers. The thought of having a tangible symbol of the poet would be enough to inspire the Greeks to fight on.
Back in Blighty, there was controversy over where the poet was to be buried. Westminster Abbey refused on ground’s of Byron’s “questionable morality.” After several weeks of negotiations, the corpse was eventually shipped back to England, embalmed in a vat of brand, for burial at the Church of St. Mary Magdalene.
Early in 1938, Canon Barber confided in the church warden A. E. Houldsworth about his misgivings and expressed his intention to examine the Byron vault and “clear up all doubts as to the Poet’s burial place and compile a record of the contents of the vault.”
Canon Barber wrote to his local member of Parliament requesting permission from the Home Office to open the crypt. He also wrote to the surviving Lord Byron, who was then Vicar of Thrumpton, asking for permission to enter the family vault. The Vicar gave his agreement and “expressed his fervent hope that great family treasure would be discovered with his ancestors and returned to him.”
 
At four o’clock on the afternoon of 15th June 1938, the doors to St. Mary Magdalene were locked. Inside, around forty people waited expectantly for the opening of the Byron vault. According to notes written by Houldsworth, among those in attendance were:

Rev. Canon Barber & his wife
Mr Seymour Cocks MP
N. M. Lane, diocesan surveyor
Mr Holland Walker
Capt & Mrs McCraith
Dr Llewellyn
Mr & Mrs G. L. Willis (vicar’s warden)
Mr & Mrs c. G. Campbell banker
Mr Claude Bullock, photographer
Mr Geoffrey Johnstone
Mr Jim Bettridge (church fireman)
The others were not known to Houldsworth.

By six-thirty, masons were able to remove the large slab above the vault. Dr. Llewellyn used a miner’s safety to be lowered into the opening to test the air. The first view of the vault revealed it be a surprisingly small area with two ornate coffins.
From a distant view the two coffins appeared to be in excellent condition. They were each surmounted by a coronet… The coronet on the centre coffin bore six orbs on long stems, but the other coronet had apparently been robbed of the silver orbs which had originally been fixed on short stems close to the rim.
The coffins were covered with purple velvet, now much faded, and some of the handles had been removed. A closer examination revealed the centre coffin to be that of Byron’s daughter Augusta Ada, Lady Lovelace.
At the foot of the staircase, resting on a child’s lead coffin was a casket which, according to the inscription on the wooden lid and on the casket inside, contained the heart and brains of Lord Noel Byron. The vault also contained six other lead shells all in a considerable state of dissolution–the bottom coffins in the tiers being crushed almost flat by the immense weight above them.

Byron’s coffin was missing its nameplate, brass ornaments, and velvet covering. It looked solid but was soft and spongy to the touch. Houldsworth called on Johnstone and Bettridge to help raise the lid. Inside was a lead shell. When this was removed, another wooden coffin was visible inside.
After raising this we were able to see Lord Byron’s body which was in an excellent state of preservation. No decomposition had taken place and the head, torso and limbs were quite solid. The only parts skeletonised were the forearms, hands, lower shins, ankles and feet, though his right foot was not seen in the coffin. The hair on his head, body and limbs was intact, though grey. His sexual organ shewed quite abnormal development. There was a hole in his breast and at the back of his head, where his heart and brains had been removed. These are placed in a large urn near the coffin. The manufacture, ornaments and furnishings of the urn is identical with that of the coffin. The sculptured medallion on the church chancel wall is an excellent representation of Lord Byron as he still appeared in 1938.

It’s been claimed by some that Byron had an enormous erection. In the 1970s, Houldsworth told a local newspaper that Byron’s penis was as big and as long as “a pony’s.” It was noted the men in attendance took turns in entering the vault to view Byron’s body before returning (no doubt in shock and awe) to the church above. There is no mention as to how the women responded. Houldsworth also later wrote to one of Byron’s biographers, Elizabeth Longford, that the poet’s missing lower leg–the one with the club foot–was located at the bottom of the coffin.

Unfortunately, the photographer present refused to take any pictures of Byron’s corpse for fear of sacrilege–well, that was his excuse. However, he did take a picture of the two coffins which was featured in the Rev. Canon Barber’s book Byron–and Where he is Buried in 1939.


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