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| The Rolleston's route to Norway's Danbaas region |
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| Capt. Rolleston |
On Tuesday July 16th 1889, the Rollestons took the weekly Wilson line steamer, the SS Eldorado², from Hull to Stavanger, spending a few days there.
On Thursday 25th July they left Stavanger on the NFDS line’s SS President Christie² up the coast to Bergen and then Molde³ where they spent several days exploring the area.
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On Tuesday 30th July they journeyed inland for several days, (transport method unknown but presumably horse-drawn of some sort) staying overnight at Lesjaverk. They would have passed the famous Trollveggen mountain wall⁶ en route.
On August 1st they continued to Dombass [Damaas on the map] then turned north towards the Kolla/Foldall region in the interior mountains. The diary calls the place they stayed “Afsjo”, a lake today called Avsjoen near Hjerkin. There was perhaps a small fishing lodge/cabin on the far side as Rolleston and his valet rowed themselves across and stayed here for a few days fishing while the rest of the party continued to “Rongsrolel”. They stayed here until Friday 9th August then moved onto “Rongsrolel” where they are all based until the diary abruptly ends on Friday August 23rd.
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| Period map of the area they stayed in north of Damaas via Orinein, Lesjeverk and Snehoetta |
He twice refers to men they meet as the “Foldal men” so presumably they are staying in the area nearby the village of Foldalen. He also mentions going up to “Snoehetta” which is in the same area and today is in the eastern part of the Dovrefjell–Sunndalsfjella National Park. The landscape is like a more extreme version of the Scottish Highlands.
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| Lady Maud Rolleston |
Several other characters appear regularly in the diary. Captain Rolleston was accompanied by "Rawnsley" who was no doubt his valet and Lady Maud by Kitty, who was probably her lady’s maid. A valet's perspective on a very similar trip in 1906 is provided in JM Wade's book "Valet's Diction" (see note #8 below). Wade was valet to Capt. Albert Whittaker of Babworth Hall in north Notts. and they stayed at the Chaworth Musters' fishing lodge, Lysne Lodge, in Norway. They even took the same ship as the Rollestons had. Wade's writing is much more descriptive than Capt. Rolleston's. He writes about their departure from Hull... "The tender soon drew alongside the liner and, our luggage being quickly transferred, the Captain took his place on the bridge, the engine bell sounded and we were on our way to the land of the Midnight Sun."
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| Chaworth Musters's hunting lodge at Vaulen |
The diary ends abruptly on Friday August 23rd. We
do not know how long they stayed in Norway for after that.
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| The diary's opening page |
Tuesday 16th July - Started on Eldorado at 8pm [the SS Eldorado was a ship of the Wilson Line of Hull that sailed between Hull, Stavanger and Bergen]
Wed. 17th - At sea moderate weather Wind NE
Thursday 18th - Arr. Stavanger 4 a.m. Grand Hotel. Left at 9 arr. Frafjord 2.30
Sat 20th - went to Dyrdal [Dirdal] and back [at the head of picturesque Frafjord]
Thursday 25th - went to Stavanger at 1:30 and I found Eldorado and joined her and arr.
Friday 26th - Arr. Bergen about 6 took luggage in a bad boat to President Christie [a ship the SS President Christie] - went to Hotel Scandanavia – very bad hotel. Walked about Bergen went to fish market with Rawnsley [perhaps his valet?] at 9 p.m. went on board Pt. Xtie and sailed at 12. [His abbreviation of President Christie - X is the religious symbol for Christ. The SS President Christie a ship on the Bergen-Harstad route]
27 Sat - Cold passage and rough at times Towed? RMS Queen Eleanor to Molde sat on deck slept in saloon arr. Molde about [8 a.m. Sunday]
Sunday 28 - [Arr 8 a.m.] In afternoon went up the hill [to Molde Panorama perhaps?] and to church. In evening? walked to Alexandra Hotel. Fine and hot.
Monday 29 - Wrote letters in morning at 3 went to Nais? Walked up river in evening. Fine
Tuesday 30th - Started with Rawnsley at 8.40. Maud & Kitty at 9. Lunched at Orinein. Got out to see Slettafossen [waterfall near Trollveggen] Arr Stueflaaten at 5. Fished? but did no good. Fine and hot
Wed 31st - Started at 10 lunched at Lesjaverk [village inland from Molde] and arr Dombaas about 8. Fine and hot. [Dombas is a town]
Thurs 1st Aug - Arr. At Afsjo? about midday Maud & Kitty & Armstrong? went onto Rongsrolel?
Rawnsley and I towed/rowed? the luggage across the lake and successful? Remained at Afsjo till Friday 9th had good sport fishing. Ruste turned up on Friday 2nd.
Monday 19th - Showery wind SW. Rawnsley & John stalked by Reiskard? to Aomoti? dal and found 3 small deer but had no cartridges. I went out with Kitty & the young dog for a few hours over Tullering Kohla? & Raunmuri? & found fresh spoks? [“spoks” perhaps means some indication of deer tracks or droppings/scat/stool] But did no good.
Tuesday 20th - Fine Wind SW. I stalked with John over Leipalskand. Human? winded? on Skard? kola but we saw nothing but some spoks?? on Snehatta? but went up & found it pretty fresh of 9 good deer but could not follow it. Went onto all 3 tops and had splendid view and came home by Finkesjotua? in 2½ hours from the top.
Wed 21st -Wet day & fog stayed in.
Thursday 22nd - Showery with strong S wind. Rawmsley stakled by Fiskesjoture? & Rolla? found spoks on Janling kolle? but did no good. I went with Ruste to Stand Kolla? thence toward the N ? of Songlarfen? before which we found spoks? of a good buck but could not follow it far west into Songlarfen? & found it again & followed then to below the big ha? on Langratidoh? where we came in sight of them. Had a canny stalk & killed a good buck and 3 small ones which turned out to be arno? Fhrugo? ?? horns? are unusually large.
Friday [23rd] - Shifting NW wind light & sun turned to heavy rain & snow on top. Rawnsley [continued on next page] stalked with John to Jutasjo lachee? & Mammerbukund? but did no good. I fished in lake & caught – 2½ hau? Mill used to fetch them? –
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| Typical turf-roofed Norwegian hunting and fishing lodge This one belonged to the Chaworth-Musters family Captain Rolleston's friends from Annesley Hall |
For more "Tales From Watnall Hall" please visit the main website by clicking here
https://watnallhall.blogspot.com/
Notes and sources:
1 - Many thanks to Wayne Smith for the diary and permission to transcribe it.
2 - Belle Epoque Cruising in Norway
A Summer Cruise to Norway (engraving) by Almond, William Douglas (1866-1916); Private Collection; (add.info.: A Summer Cruise to Norway. Illustration for The Illustrated London News, 1 June 1889
SS Eldorado http://www.norwayheritage.com/p_ship.asp?sh=eldor
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The S/S Eldorado was built in 1886 by Earles' Co. Ltd. in Hull for the Wilson Line. This was the 3rd vessel by this name owned by the Wilson Line. Her tonnage was 1 382 tons gross, 1 320 under deck and 828 net. She was an iron construction, with a single screw and schooner rigged. She had 2 decks, 1 partly of iron and awning deck, 5 cemented bulkheads. Forward Peak Tank 10 tons, Aft Peak Tank 50 tons. Propulsion: compound engine with 3 inverted cylinders of 28, 43 & 70 inches diameter respectively, stroke 39 inches, operating at 154 p.s.i., delivering 250 horsepower. The engine was built by the same company as the hull. In September 1913 she was sold to J. Cashmore for scrapping at Newport. [The Wilson Line of Hull by A.G.Credland & M.Thompson, Lloyd's register of shipping]
SS President Christie https://skipshistorie.net/Trondheim/TRH110NFDS/Tekster/TRH11018840100000%20PRESIDENT%20CHRISTIE.htm
Belle Epoque cruisng Norway
Back in Victorian times, much like today, cruise ships provided popular holidays for the middle and upper classes. They were heavily advertised in the newspapers and periodicals with numerous competing shipping lines. A 13 day cruise to the Norwegian fjords started from 12 guineas (about £2000 today). Other options included a longer cruise to see the midnight sun or visit the Baltic capitals via the newly-opened Baltic canal.
https://sites.google.com/site/norwegiancoastalexpress/belleepoquecruising
4 - Salmon Lords – Brother of the Rod
The first English anglers looking for good salmon fishing began traveling to Norway around 1830. It was these anglers who brought fly fishing to Norwegian rivers and where called "salmon lords" (Lakse Lordes) by the Norwegians, they belonged to the British upper classes, some were bona fide members of the nobility, some bore the title of "baron" while others were higher military officers. Common to all of them was a certain level of adventure, exploration and wealth that freed them from the cares of making a living. At this time the British Empire was at the peak of its power and these Englishman known to each other as "brothers of the rod" crossed the North Sea to explore the undiscovered rivers of Norway and fish for bars of silver.
5 - Snohetta viewpoint
https://www.visitnorway.com/listings/viewpoint-sn%C3%98hetta/181161/
Is an architectural viewing pavilion overlooking Tverrfjellet mountain at Hjerkinn. The building was designed by Snøhetta architects and opened in 2011. It was commissioned by the Norwegian Wild Reindeer Centre North.
Welcome to Viewpoint Snøhetta in the summer. From 1st of June to the middle of October is it open 24/7. Viewpoint Snøhetta is closed in the winther.
The pavilion is a boxed-steel construction, with a large glass surface facing Snøhetta to the north, and an organic, undulating wooden shape to the south. The building is open and accessible during the summer months and is 20 minutes’ walk from the car park at Tverrfjellet.
The car park is ringed by posts inspired by the old fences used more than 800 years ago to capture wild reindeer in the mountains. Follow the gravel path, which is wheelchair friendly, 1500 meters up to the viewpoint. On the way a series of stone slabs tells the history of Dovrefjell over the last 10000 years. At the top you reach viewpoint SNØHETTA, with views to Dovre-Sunndalsfjella National Park and the disused artillery range at Hjerkinn.
The building has won several international awards and was named “World Building of the Year” in 2011.
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6 - Trollveggen valley - the Troll Wall
Another Norway diary highlighting sights and sounds the Rollestons may have encountered -https://www.prm.ox.ac.uk/finmarken-and-lapland-1888-3rd-august-11th-september-notebook
7 - James Chaworth Musters - WW2 resistance movement in Norway. He escaped to London via the Shetlands on a Norwegian fishing boat, helped establish the "Shetland Bus", a clandestine network of fishing boats that travelled to and from Norway and organised and recruited Norwegian resistance fighters during the war years. His recruits and associates included Martin Linge, Max Manus and the real-life "Heroes of Telemark" saboteurs incl. Jens-Anton Poulsson and Knut Haugland. He is pictured with below a team of early recruits. From left: Norwegians Ruben Langmo, Simon Sinclair Fjeld and Olav Martin Leirvåg, who took part in the first Allied sabotage operation in German-occupied Norway, with Briton James Chaworth-Musters from SOE. Photo: Scalloway Museum.
https://www.totalkrig.no/artikkel/samarbeid-i-krigens-skygge-soe-og-sis-i-norge (open article and right click to translate to English).
I've written more about Musters and his brothers in this realted article on The Tales from Watnall Hall website... https://watnallhall.blogspot.com/2021/11/great-war-fallen-sons-of-annesley-hall.html
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| James Chaworth Musters (in hat) and Norwegian resistance fighters and his less than flattering statue at Vaulen |
8 - Land of the Vikings
By William James Wade (1873-1914)
It was a lovely day in June as Kate, Fanny and I waited on the platform of Retford station for the Wilson Line boat express to take us to Hull en route for Norway. Punctually at two, the train steamed in and, as it was an unusual occurrence for the express to stop here, many heads appeared at the windows to know the reason why.
An hour's run brought us to the Paragon station, Hull, where there was a scramble for the luggage, a general meeting of fishing friends and much fishing talk. A cab soon took us to the pier and, as the tide was low, we had to embark by tender. In the offing, the Wilson liner "Tasso", 1,456 tons, was anchored and our feelings were varied as we viewed the ship that was to be our home for the next few days.
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| Paragon Station, Hull |
I knew the "Tasso" of old, but to Kate and Fanny, it was quite an experience and the prospect of a new country, new sights and people, and the wonderful stories of the land of the Vikings was something to look forward to. The tender soon drew alongside the liner and, our luggage being quickly transferred, the Captain took his place on the bridge, the engine bell sounded, and we were on our way to the land of the Midnight Sun. It was delightful sitting on deck as we moved slowly down the Humber and watching the numerous ships we passed on the way; huge merchantmen and little trawlers, all bringing goods to the great markets of England.
With the friendly feeing everyone feels on a steamer, we soon made acquaintance with our fellow travellers who were mostly, like ourselves, bound for Norwegian fishing lodges. Many Norwegians were travelling, too, some returning from America, where they had made their little "pile" and were now returning to their native country, where they usually buy up little farms and start as landed proprietors.
As we passed the lighthouse at the mouth of the Humber, flags were dipped and the shores of old England slowly disappeared from view. It was choppy outside, so we decided to go below and then our troubles commenced. Our cabins were at the stern and right over the propellor and the stuffiness of the atmosphere, combined with the raking sound of the screw and the motion of the boat, soon made us beat a hasty retreat to our cabins. Henry and I turned in and made up our minds for a rough time and crossing the Dogger bank, we had to hold tight on to our bunks to prevent ourselves being thrown out.
Next morning, the gale continued and as each big sea struck the "Tasso," she seemed to groan and creak from end to end and, under the circumstances, we decided the best thing to do was to lie low and say nothing. Our kindly steward paid us frequent visits, offering us tempting dishes which it would have been folly for us to have partaken of, and assuring us that the ladies weren't at all ill. We didn't say much to this as we knew it was his nice way of putting it.
The next night we felt very sore with having lain in our hard bunks so long and at three in the morning, as we were nearing smooth water, we got up and dressed and, having called the girls, went on deck. How glorious and fresh the air felt after the stuffy cabin and the colours of the horizon, where the sun was just rising, was indeed a sight worth getting up for. We hadn't been long on deck before we noticed the "Tasso" [was] going almost dead slow and, on inquiry, we were told that a tube had burst in the water tube boilers. To repair this, the fires had to be raked out, the boilers cooled down, and after four hours' hard work for the engine room staff. it was repaired and we were off again.
This made us four hours late in reaching Stavanger, but it was fortunate it didn't occur during the storm at sea. Stavanger was reached at 8 o'clock and, as a large quantity of cargo had to be discharged, we had two hours to spare. It was quite a treat to be on land again, but the heat was almost tropical; we noticed it more, I think, coming off the sea. Stavanger is a busy and cheerful town of 24,000 inhabitants, with good shops, a cathedral, public gardens and a museum.
The market place was a scene of great excitement, it being market day. All around were spread the stalls, where meat and vegetables were sold, while a little further away, the live fish market interested us immensely. The streets were very steep and narrow and it would require a steeplechase rider to ride a bicycle through them. The people, too, formed a striking contrast to what we were used to; instead of the hurry and bustle of an English street, everyone took things leisurely and stopped to stare at us as if time was of no account. Having visited a curious old church, bought some postcards and sampled some of the excellent Norwegian beer (or 'oel'), we went on board the "Tasso' and continued the journey to Bergen.
From Stavanger, the voyage was delightful as we kept inside the islands and the motion of the ship was hardly perceptible. It was curious how people seemed to turn out of odd corners and look as if the had enjoyed the crossing; one would hardly think there were so many people on board. Outside Bergen, we passed the Wilson liner "Eldorado" homeward bound; both ships saluting at passing by lowering their flags.
The harbour at Bergen is said to be one of the prettiest in the world; it is so situated that you seem to enter it from one corner, when the whole town bursts into view.
Bergen is a very up-to-date town with electric trams, first-class hotels and fine shops. Unfortunately, we hadn't time to land, as we had missed the regular boat and a special steamer was waiting alongside to take us to Laerdalsøren [Laerdelsøyri].
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| Bergen Harbour - late 19th century |
After a prolonged wrangle with the customs officials, we got on board the "Rapide", our unfortunate chickens suffering most in the transfer as their crate got turned upside down when being lowered from the "Tasso." These birds, too, suffered from the effect of tarriffs, as we had to pay 24 Kroners duty, being a Kroner per bird, for bringing them into the country.
The "Rapide" was a small river launch, with two cabins fore and aft. In the larger cabin, the ladies of the party and Master Jack made themselves comfortable for the night, whilst Kate and Fanny got into the smaller one. As for the rest of us, we had to spread our rugs and sleep in the open. As it was a glorious night and not at all cold, we were soon asleep.
At four o'clock, we were disturbed by the cockerels; some crowed, some tried to crow. By this time, we had entered the famous Sogne fjord one of the finest in Norway. We seemed to shoot through narrow passages and round islands i It seemed a marvel how the captain could know his way. In many places the mountains rose sheer out of the water to a height of many thousand feet And in one place the fjord is stated to be 4,000 feet deep.
Sometimes, on rounding a promontory, we would come across a village of wooden houses with their roofs covered in flowers, the little wooden church, and the inevitable saw mill for the wood, which is the staple Industry of the country.
We had to call at a little place for milk and our advent brought all the village out, the men in their Sunday best and the women dressed quietly in black with the usual shawl over their heads. As for the hardy Norseman of history, he seems no longer to exist; hardy they must be to stand the severe winter, but taking them generally, they look thin and colourless, quite different from those one sees in the towns.
We had breakfast, for which we were quite ready, as soon as we got the milk on board, for which, by the way, I had to walk about a mile to get as the cows were all up the mountains at the sacters, as they call them, where they are sent during the summer.
As the morning advanced, the heat of the sun became almost scorching. shut in as we were on all sides by mountains and we all got very sunburnt Salmon were to be seen jumping in many places and a huge grampus caused a diversion by "throwing" himself close to our boat.
We saw the [Jostedalsbre] glacier, too, a field of frozen snow, miles in extent, and frozen so hard that it has never been known to melt. The mountain tops, too, were covered with snow a sight which cheered the heart of the angler, as plenty [of] snow means high water and good fishing.
At a quarter to three, we came in sight of Laerdal, our landing place, and right glad we were to see it, as we had been almost fed up with the scenery Here, a crowd soon gathered to see us land, and after much struggling, our numerous pieces of luggage were landed.
Then my troubles commenced as one small cart was waiting to take our ton of luggage. Other carts were ordered and sent for, but as no-one hurries in this country, the only thing to do was to sit on the luggage and wait patiently. By degrees, one "stolkjarre" after another arrived, was loaded up, and when our procession started, we had eight carts and two hours had been spent in getting them off. Kate and I led the way in one "stolkjarre", a little cart with a seat for two, whilst the driver sits on the luggage behind. Henry brought up the rear. Our passage through the town was almost a triumphal progress as everyone turned out to see the show pass.
Laerdalsøyri is a small town boasting of two hotels, one kept by Herr Lindstrøm, a wily Norseman who speaks Engliash very well and keeps the village store. As our ponies were fresh, we didn't stop, although we badly wanted a refresher, and soon had our first glance of the Laerdal. It was a splendid river, big and rapid, with splendid, coloured water - quite an angler's paradise.
For the rest of the journey, the road ran alongside the river and, as we skimmed round corners and ran close to the stream - where in some places, the slightest swerve would have sent us into the river 20 feet below - Kate got rather nervous. A two hours drive brought us to Blaaflat, where there is a Norse hotel, and in the distance we descried the flagstaff of Lysne [Ljøsne].
Lysne Lodge is built on a promontory, made in some distant age by a glacier, and resembling nothing so much as a railway embankment. It was formerly a farmhouse, but was turned into a fishing lodge some years ago by Mr Musters, a pioneer in Norwegian fishings. It is built of wood, with a charming veranda running almost the whole length of the house. The rooms are roomy and comfortable and adjoining is a good garden, quite an acquisition for a Norse fishing lodge.
There were so many of us that we couldn't all fit in the fishing lodge, so Henry and I slept in the farmhouse close by. It was all right, but the beds annoyed us. much too short. They seemed to be made for dwarfs, not men, as they were I had to sleep crossways on and the sheets were like face towels and just as big.
Our party consisted of fifteen people: Colonel and Mrs. Du Vernet; Captain and Mrs Whitaker and Master Jack; Colonel Croker; Lord Galway: Major Stamer, Mr and Mrs Ingham Whitaker; Kate, Fanny, Mrs Collins, Henry and I completed the number.
We found two Norwegian servants awaiting us, whom we called Young Kari and Old Kari. English fairly well. head of hair. Old Kari had been cook here for 25 seasons and spoke Young Kari was her neice, a smart girl with a wonderful
The gaffers all seemed to possess the same name as they are called Long Ole, Mid Ole, Little Ole and Red Ole. Long, Mid and Red spoke English, but Little Ole only spoke two words - "what" and "yes" - so one never knew whether he understood or not.
Our first evening was spent unpacking and generally settling down in our new quarters. It was very curious at eleven o'clock when we retired to go to bed by daylight.
Next morning, everyone was early astir, rods were spliced, lines overhauled and many were the consultations as the best fly to use. As to the flies, they are the most gaudy contrivances one could imagine and totally unlike anything that flies under the sun.
The weather, too, forms a debatable point in fishing, as it is either too bright or too dull, too fine or too wet, and yet I have often noticed that the days Mid Ole called "one rotten day" generally accounted for the most fish. Wonderful are the ways of salmon; no-one can tell when and what he will take or why he takes artificial flies. The water was divided into four beats the top beat from Bjørkum to Boat Pool. the next Boat Pool to Nede's Lysne, there to Molde, and from Molde to Laerdalsøren. Bjørkum was considered the best pool; it has a record of 22 fish having been taken there by Mr Portman in one day.
Great was the excitement as each fisher returned. Etiquette was thrown to the wind and everyone left the table and rushed to the door to see the fish brought in. The first day was a great success, six fish being caught, and everyone's spirits rose at the prospect of good sport. is done by wading, as the river is too rapid for a boat and very dangerous Most of the fishing it is when one gets into deep water; the current is so strong as almost to take one off one's feet.
One day, June 28th, 12 fish lay on the grass, the best, 31 pounds, caught by Mr Ingham Whitaker, and a good group they made. We soon settled down to our new life and as the quality of the Norse beer was excellent, we were quite happy.
Our peace was somewhat disturbed on the 22nd June, on hearing that we were to be honoured with a visit from the Prince of Wales, who had been attending the coronation of the King and Queen of Norway at Trondheim, and who afterwards proposed visiting a few of the Norwegian fishing lodges. Our lodge was hardly fitted up for entertaining Royalty, but with the help of Herr Lindstrom, we made quite a decent show. The poultry yard suffered severely and a sheep was slain, which same animal's total weight when hung up was 32 pounds.
We were early astir on the morning of the 2nd July, having a general tidy up and making all the rooms fresh with wild flowers. A speciality was made of the dining room table - a task which Kate undertook and well she did it We found a dwarf wild rose bush, which did for the centre, and all around, roses were banked and also laid on the cloth. It was most effective and His Royal Highness expressed his delight at such a display of wild flower decoration.
Lord Galway did all the arranging of the visit and went on board the Royal yacht, Victoria and Albert, on its arrival and the captain [Whitaker] went to meet and conduct the Prince to the fishing. It was a lovely day, too bright almost for fishing, but fortunately the Prince hooked and landed a fine 17 pounder. After this, they came to lunch at Lysne, where the ladies of our party were duly presented to the Prince. At lunch, a certain amount of restraint was felt at the presence of Royalty, but the Prince soon made everyone feel at ease.
He talked incessantly and was full of fishing stories and very much against the new Norway fishing laws. With H.R.H. were Mr Dugdale, Commander Godfrey Fausett, and the Master of Elibank. After lunch, as H.R.H. agreed to a photo being taken, I had the honour of doing so and got an excellent group.
The whole party soon went off to the top water, but as it was still too bright, fishing was hopeless and they arrived back just as the Princess and all her suite got here.
Our ladies met the Princess at the gate and duly curtsied as they were presented by Lord Galway. With the Princess were Princess Mary of Wales; Lady Mary Forbes Trepisis; Dr Nansen, the famous "Farthest North" explorer; Sir L Beaumont; Lord Chesham; Sir F. Laking, the famous doctor; Commander Henderson of the "Terrible"; and Midshipman Hills; Princess Victoria not being with the party as she was unwell.
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| Dr. Nansen |
Our life went on smoothly after this and the total of fish caught crept up quickly. A weekly sweep always took place on Sunday night as to how many fish would be caught during the ensuing week and great was the excitement on Friday and Saturday as each fisher returned. I had three tries at fishing. The first night I fished Mid Lysne, hooked a good fish, but after the first run out, he broke away as he was lightly hooked.
The second time, in Boat Pool, I hooked a fish and had him almost up to the boat, when he got off, and the same the third time. One of our favourite walks was up to Bjorkum Pool, where we could see the fish "throw" themselves clean out of the water. we had, too, along the face of the cliffs and down by the river side. Many other nice walks memorable day, too, was our drive to Borgund, where the oldest wooden A church in Norway stands. It is a most curious and dismal structure and dates back to 1623. The drive was delightful, running alongside the Laerdal all the way and in places, the road was cut out of solid rock. photographed near Husum, which will remain a pleasant memory of a happy day.
It was with regret that the second of August drew near, when we were to bid goodbye to Lysne, and it was almost like parting with old friends when we bade adieu to Kari and all the gaffers, who all hoped to see us again. It was seven in the evening when we left Long Ole, who would drive us down, and Mid Ole also, and the old ponies went to Laerdalsøren quicker than they ever went before.
Soon all our luggage was on board and the goodbyes said. We went below as the "Kommandoran" did not set sail until five the next morning. We came on deck as we neared Gudvangen and it was quite interesting as we called at several places on the way; Stalheim being a very pretty and favourite place. We reached Bergen at eight in the evening and, after seeing all our luggage sent to the "Eldorado", we went to Holt's Hotel. Here we had a good supper and, after a nice walk round the town, we returned and had a good night's rest. Next morning, we were early astir and did some more sightseeing and shopping and at eleven went aboard the " Eldorado."
The sail down the coast to Stavanger was delightful. We sat on deck all the way. Leaving Stavanger, we made straight out to sea and, after a good passage, the Humber was reached at 2 o'clock on Monday morning. I went on deck at three. The air was very keen, but it seemed nice to be near old England again. We had to wait until six for the tide and got into dock at half past.
Soon our luggage was examined by the custom officers. We got to the Paragon station and reached Retford at half past ten. Thus ended our little trip and now that it is over, we look back on it with pleasure. We were a happy family, and what little drawbacks there were have faded from our memory and it will always remain as a very happy time in the Land of the Midnight Sun.
William James Wade
Retford, Notts.
August, 1906
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